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KPmXN8LXHf_zWhnvfIuFMZoefeo Dog Health Pedia: 11/08/11

Tuesday, 8 November 2011

What About Puppy Training

What About Puppy Training
 1. Correct the dog any time he has an accident in the house.
 Keep him confined to either a crate, or a dog run outside when you can't supervise him.
 2.Establish a specific spot, and a command you repeat (such as "Get busy!")  while you're     waiting for him to eliminate outside.
 3.Set up a rigorous feeding and watering schedule, and take him out immediately after he does both.
 4.Praise the dog anytime he eliminates outside.
 5. Use an odor neutralizer, such as a product called "Nature's Miracle" (you can  buy this at   your local pet store, or through a mail order catalog.)
  The best way to actually get your dog housebroken, in the least amount of time,  is to take a look at a new DVD we've just released called, "Housebreaking In A  Hurry!
 "

I can honestly say that "Housebreaking In A Hurry!" is THE tool that will allow  you to get your dog housebroken in no time at all.
It shows:
 - How to correct your dog when he eliminates in the house.
 (You'll see me demonstrating how to give a motivational correction on a hungry  Rottweiler that's trying to get to a pile of hot dogs.)
- The proper way to size, fit  and use a training collar.
- Which leashes and tabs to use.
- A home-made solution you can use to clean up accidents, and actually 'lift' the    stain out of your carpet, rather than 'masking' the scent.
- How to establish an 'elimination' command, so that you can tell your dog where and when it's okay to eliminate... even if you travel or move.
- How to make and use a tie-down that will assist in your housebreaking efforts.
- How  to confine your dog, so that he doesn't have accidents when you're not around to  correct him.
- How to make your dog understand that eliminating in the house is something
The should NEVER DO!
 - Three Keys To Successful Behavior Modification: Timing, Consistency and Motivation.
 And how to use these three keys to speed up the housebreaking process.
- Tips for housebreaking a new puppy.
- Why correcting your dog for submissive urination will actually make it worse.
- A cleaning solution that many of the dog training books still recommend that will actually SABOTAGE your housebreaking efforts!
- And much, much more
If you think that this DVD might help you with your housebreaking woes, I've got a few copies available for $39.97 (plus s/h).
 In fact, I'm so confident that this information is the absolute fastest way to get your dog housebroken that I'm willing to go out on a limb and say that if this doesn't work, then your dog must have a bladder or urinary tract infection.
In other words, if your dog isn't completely housebroken in less than 30 days, you've got to be an idiot or someone who is merely incapable of following instructions.
Nor will you see dogs or puppies that are left in the house to eliminate, just so that we could get it on camera.
That would be cruel.
What you will see is ME explaining what you need to know in order to get your dog housebroken, quickly.
It's as if you were one of our clients, and I was meeting with you, face-to-face and explaining what has worked to housebreak literally thousands of dogs.
These techniques work! All you need to do is put this DVD into your DVD player, follow the simple instructions, and you'll be able to leave your dog in the house without worrying that he'll defecate or urinate on your expensive rug or new furniture.

how to house train a dog

how to house train a dog
Generally, dogs are very clean animals - they won't soil close to where the
y eat, or where they sleep.
 But living in a house is unnatural for an animal whose instincts would be to roam wherever she wants to go, so you will have to help her learn where and when she can relieve herself.
It is essential that you form good toilet habits for your dog as early on as possible. 
Trying to break the habit of a dog is quite difficult and it can be very frustrating.
You need to use guidance and encouragement to help the pet.
  Animal behaviorists have some helpful tips that you can use to help with the housebreaking of your pet.
Believe it or not, dogs are sanitary creatures.
  If a dog does soil accidentally in the wrong place, it is likely that it will be far from his dog dish, at least six to ten feet.
 This is true for the place where the dog sleeps as well.
 But, unless you find a good place for her to go and train her in that manner, the rest of your house is okay to them.
The process for housebreaking a dog is the same if he is a puppy or an adult dog new to your home. 
You’ll need to take him outside every few hours and also 30 minutes after he eats. 
Take your pet to the designated bathroom spot.
 Stay with the pet until she goes, and then praise her when she does. 
If she does not go, bring her back inside and try again in fifteen minutes.
 Watch her though.
  If the dog starts sniffing and circling take them out right away as this is a sign that she is about to go.
  Pay attention to her signs and take her out. 
Soon, she will relate to going outside to going to the bathroom.
Some dogs are housebroken much faster than others.
  Some dog’s personality will cause her to go one way or the other.
 But, if you take her outside at the right time, it will go smoother.
  A puppy of less than four months old will need to go out during the night.
 Older puppies can hold it that long. 
A dog that cries to be let out has an urgent need. 
Positive reinforcement is necessary for success.
Get up and take her out, she needs every chance to succeed that she can get. 
If you catch your dog going in the act, distract her with a clap or call her name. 
How you treat accidents will affect your dog’s overall learning curve.
Take her outside calmly at that time and praise her for finishing outside.
 If the dog approaches during this time, ignore her.
 Don’t talk to or punish her at this point.
Clean up any accident that you find on the floor.
 The worst thing that you can do is to yell at her or physically punish her.
 This will cause her to fear you and to not bond as well to you.
 She won’t connect it to the accident at all. 
Ignoring her is the best course of action here.

how to walk a dog

how to walk a dog
City walks are the principle form of exercise for urban pets.
 Try to find a nearby park or enclosed area where you can let your dog stretch his legs for a few minutes, off the lead.
If this is impossible, buy an extra-long leash and seek a safe spot where he can roam within its limits.
Dog owners can strengthen their position by respecting a few rules when walking their pets on the street.
This is unfortunately easier said than done, since more and more cities are banning dogs from wider areas.
Since most dogs feel the urge to relieve themselves shortly after they are taken out of doors, plan your walk to start with suitable stations.
-    Train your dog to relieve himself in the gutter, and walk him on the curb side of the sidewalk so that you can pull him into the gutter if necessary.
Always carry a few plastic bags with you.
 If your dog should make "a mistake" on the sidewalk, slip your hand into the bag as if it were a glove, scoop up the mistake, then pull the bag inside out in order to enclose it.
Never cross the street against a traffic light.
 Even if the light is green, it is better to wait for the beginning of the next green phase in order to have plenty of time for crossing.
Always keep your dog on a leash and under control.
 If he is well-trained, you can run the risk of unleashing him in selected safe spots, but always be prepared to snap on the leash if necessary, and always leash to cross the street.
Try to avoid rush hours and crowded places.
When you are unavoidably caught in a crowd, keep your dog close at heel on a short leash, or if he is small enough, carry him in your arms.
Never let your pet greet a passing dog if the encounter would cause a pedestrian traffic jam, nor let him make advances to strangers. Some people, believe it or not, do not like dogs.
Suburban walks aren't much different from those in the city.
The vehicle traffic may be less, but it is even more dangerous because it moves faster.
Your dogs greatest freedom and enjoyment will be had with walks in the woods, the mountains, or along the beach.
The woods are full of fascinating sights and scents for a dog.
 Let him roam on his own, but call him back when he gets out of sight.
 In the mountains, your dog will be more sure-footed if he is unleashed.
At the same time, many dogs have an instinct for finding passages through apparently impenetrable country, and are excellent guides.
The beach is a great place for giving your dog a good long run.
Unfortunately, many beaches are out of bounds for dogs during the swimming season, sometimes all year round.
Shingle beaches and pebbly ones are hard on a dog's pad. Even more dangerous is the risk cuts from broken bottles and picnic litter.
 Small dogs are light enough to scamper over such debris unharmed, but it represents a real chance to heavy breeds.
 Steer your dog clear of debris when you can, and check his paws when you get home.

What Dogs Need

What Dogs Need
Loyal, friendly, protective, affectionate, fun. Those qualities have earned dogs a special place in the lives and hearts of humans.
Most dogs now are owned as pets mainly because they are THE ideal pets.
A dog will always try to keep you pleased and smiling.
It will never hold grudges against you, and will never judge you for your looks or mistakes.
It isn't called man's best friend for nothing.
Dogs have a basic need for shelter, good nutrition, exercise and companionship. 
A dog will rely on its owner for all of these needs, in addition to training and protection.
These are all basic needs, but really, what a dog needs the most is veterinary care. If a person has a dog for a pet, it is a good idea to ensure that it is seen by a vet regularly.
Dogs are prone to a wide array of illnesses and diseases and it is best that he gets vaccinated against these diseases.
 Some of the most fatal diseases that a dog should be administered with a vaccine against are listed below.
1. Canine Adenovirus - or Infectious Canine Hepatitis (ICH).
ICH is an extremely contagious disease that only dogs could be transmitted with and other canine-type animals.
This disease is transmitted in urine and eye or nasal secretions of animals with this disease and affects the liver, kidneys and lining of the blood vessels.
Dogs of all ages are prone to acquire this disease, although puppies and younger dogs are at a higher risk.
2. Parvovirus - This is an extremely contagious viral disease that affects white blood cells, the intestines, and heart.
It is characterized by vomiting, severe diarrhea and fever.
 It is often fatal in puppies.
At the highest risk for this disease are dogs in crowded places such as dog shows and kennels.
3. Para Influenza - Also known as tracheobronchitis, it is a contagious infection of dogs seriously affecting young puppies' upper respiratory.
Its symptoms are gagging and coughing.
Dogs in stressful and crowded conditions are at the highest risk for this disease.
4. Canine Distemper Virus (CDV) - It is transmitted through contact with infected dogs and affects the gastrointestinal, respiratory and central nervous systems. This disease is often fatal to puppies and adult dogs.
5. Rabies - Rabies can affect all warm-blooded animals that are unvaccinated against the disease, including humans.
 It affects the brain and is always deadly.
Pets get exposed to rabies from the bites of wild animals which include bats, raccoons, foxes and skunks.
The bottom line is to keep a dog disease-free.
Have it vaccinated. After all, what dogs need . . .good health!

What Dog Breed I Recommend

What Dog Breed I Recommend
To recommend a good dog breed to someone, you need to know two things:
1. You need to understand both the wants and needs of the family who is looking to adopt a new dog.
A couple who have very dominant personalities and no children will generally be able to handle a dog with more horsepower than would a quiet, submissive couple with a few small children.
2. You must have an in-depth and personal experience with many different breeds.
And more specifically, you must have multiple experiences with each breed.
 When you've been training dogs professionally for about 10 years, you've seen pretty much everything cross your path, at least three or four times.
 And for the more popular breeds, you've had literally hundreds of experiences that can put you in a very good position to analyze the pro's and con's of each breed.
That being said, here are the top five breeds I recommend to people I don't know very well:
1. Golden Retriever: These dogs have a soft, pliable and easily trainable temperament. They are very pain-resistant and very forgiving to the owner who accidentally steps on a toe or clumsily trips on the dog.
Purchased from a good breeder, these dogs are a joy to own.
2.  Australian Shepherd: Not to be confused with the Australian Cattle Dog (also an excellent breed but not for the amateur or weak owner) the Australian Shepherd - if obtained from a quality breeder - is fantastic.
I don't think that there is anything you can't train this breed to do.
3.  Poodle (any variety): These dogs score extremely high on both the trainability scale and on the intelligence scale.
 I'm always amazed at how quickly these dogs can pick up an new behavior. It's almost like communicating to a human in dog clothing. If it wasn't for the sissy factor, I'd probably own one myself.
 Professional dog trainers see very few dog owners who walk through the door with troubling behavior problems.
If everyone owned a Poodle, we'd all be out of business.
4. Boston Terrier: These dogs are clean and quiet.
They make a fantastic house dog and are very easy to get along with.
 A perfect companion for the elder dog owner, or just somebody who wants a very peaceful dog ownership experience with a breed that is not very demanding.
5. Shetland Sheepdog: Small, easily trainable and possessing a soft temperament, they are intelligent and - with the right training techniques - will learn new behaviors very quickly.
That's all for now,

Leather Dog Collar

Leather Dog Collar
Dog collars come in a variety of colors, styles and even functions.
There’s the obedience or choke collar, bark control collars, flea collars, and a whole array of just dog collars.
 So which to choose?
If barking is an issue perhaps a bark control collar will do the trick.
 Bark control collars use two types of bark detection, either external sound or vibrations from the dogs throat.
 Neither type is totally infallible; the vibration type can be set off by motion and the sound type by external sounds other than the dog barking.
 The best collars employ both methods at the same time to reduce the ‘false’ readings and help bring barking under control.
But once your dog has stopped barking what do you need to consider in a dog collar?
One of the essentials of a dog collar is to make sure that it’s personalized and has the dogs name and your contact details engraved somewhere on the collar or on a tag.
 This will make it easy for someone to get in touch with you if your dog gets lost. It can also help keep your dog calm in what can be a distressing situation.
 Leather makes an excellent dog collar.
 It is very strong, hard wearing, weather proof and comfortable for your dog.
There are flat collars for dogs with shorter hair, and rounded collars for longer haired dogs.
While your dog may be amongst strangers, they will know his name from his collar and he’ll feel less threatened if called by name.
This is to stop breaking the hair around your dog’s neck.
Try and keep the dog collar as thin as you can while maintaining the strength for your dog’s comfort.
    Finally pick a dog collar that suits your dog’s personality and size.
After all it is part of your dog’s image!

Dog Agility Training In Winter

Dog Agility Training In Winter
Yes, its cold outside, but don't stop your dog's agility training.
  Depending on where you live, there might be snow on the ground from November through March, but thats no reason to give up your agility training. Bring your training indoors, right at your own home.
Get creative with your training locations.
 Do you have a hallway, basement, or garage?  Then you have a place to train!  Before it snows and your equipment is frozen to the ground, store some in your garage, shed, basement, or put a tarp over it.
 Bring in one piece of equipment at a time, and begin your indoor training.
We do a lot of indoor training with a Pause Table.
 In fact, we keep one in our living room for both obedience training and agility training all the time. 
 The Pause Table is a great obstacle for developing your obedience behaviors and teaching agility directional commands
Don't forget to work on your contacts.
 If you don't have indoor matting, don't jump.  You don't want your dog jumping on concrete or wood floors. 
But you can use the uprights or posts to practice your handling.
Use your Sit-stay or Down-stay and practice your lines or dogs path with no jump bars. 
Weaves can be practice indoors. 
Are you training with a weave-chute or straight line weaves?  Five minutes a day of weave training through out the winter will have your dog weaving smoothly by springtime.
 It's easy by having a Contact Trainer indoors. A 3-Piece Contact Trainer offers you versatility; you have an A-frame side, the Pause Table, and a Dog-walk plank.  Practicing your two feet on and two feet off is convenient and quick when you have indoor contacts, only a few minutes a day to steady your dog's behavior.
Indoor jumping must be approached carefully.
 There are mini-teeters, mini-dog walks, and mini-A-frames.
 You can practice weave entries and weave sends or weave recalls.
There is also a variety of mini agility equipment that can be purchased, and don't require the same space as standard equipment.
 These are great obstacles for puppy training or indoor winter training.
So, during the cold winter months, don't give up on your agility training.
 Whether you are starting a young pup, working a novice dog, or an experienced titled dog there is always something that you can do indoors with your agility training.